Cooling air produces condensation. The equipment is supposed to
collect it and send it through a drain. If that path clogs, the first
sign may be a wet floor, a full secondary pan, or a stain below an attic
unit. I pay extra attention to systems sitting over finished rooms for
that reason.
Locate the drain outlet and learn where it terminates. Look for
standing water, rust, staining, or a pump that runs oddly. A float
switch may shut the system down when water rises; don’t bypass it just
to get the cooling back. A secondary pan is a warning system, not a
place to store water. Be mindful that some high-efficiency heating
equipment also makes condensate in winter.
Cleaning depends on the
setup
Traps, access tees, pumps, and drain routes vary. A homeowner may be
able to inspect an accessible outlet or replace a manufacturer-approved
pump filter, but indiscriminately pouring chemicals into a line can
damage parts or create an unsafe mix. Have a qualified HVAC contractor
clear and test the drain, pan, pump, and safety switch according to the
equipment instructions. Ask where the discharge should be visible so you
can keep an eye on it later.
ENERGY
STAR includes condensate drainage in its HVAC maintenance checklist.
It is easy to miss during a quick filter change, yet it can be the part
of a working cooling system that causes the most visible interior
damage.
For a contractor contact, see my Helpful
Resources page. The Homeowner
Tools & Supplies guide includes leak detection ideas that may
give you an early heads-up near accessible equipment.