Water heaters tend to be ignored until the hot water changes or a
puddle appears. A tank model may need sediment flushing and anode
inspection, but the right schedule and procedure vary with the
equipment, water chemistry, and service history. I would start with the
label and manual.
Look around the base and accessible connections for drips, rust
streaks, or corrosion. Keep stored items away from the unit and any
required combustion-air openings. Don’t block a relief-valve discharge
pipe or treat water at its end as a normal nuisance. A tank that has not
been serviced for years may have a drain valve that won’t close after
being opened; that’s a reason to ask a qualified plumber to handle the
first service.
The anode is a sacrificial part that can help protect a steel tank,
but inspecting or replacing it often requires clearance, tools, and
judgment about the unit. Gas venting, electrical connections, and relief
valves are also professional work. If you hear unusual boiling sounds,
lose hot water, see leakage, or notice combustion concerns, arrange
prompt service. A leaking tank itself is generally a replacement
discussion, not a caulk job.
Ask the contractor to document the work and set a practical next
interval for your water and model. My Helpful
Resources directory includes local trade contacts. The Homeowner
Tools & Supplies page includes leak alarms for accessible areas,
though an alarm cannot prevent a tank failure.