The sump pump that ran last spring may have spent the whole summer
sitting still. A storm is a poor time to learn that the float is stuck
or the discharge line is blocked. I suggest treating a pump and its
backup as a small system, not just one motor in a pit.
Look at the pit and cover, the power connection, and the visible
discharge. Water should leave the building and not simply return to the
foundation. Follow the manufacturer’s test method; many pumps can be
tested by adding water until the float activates, provided the pit is
accessible and it is safe to do so. Watch for a complete cycle and check
that water leaves at the intended outlet. Do not reach into a wet pit
near electrical connections, and never use an extension cord as a
permanent power source.
The backup is its own task
If there is a battery or water-powered backup, test it by its
instructions and check the battery age, terminals, alarm, and supply. A
backup that chirps or has a dead battery doesn’t provide much
protection. FEMA’s sump-pump
guidance explains the value of a pump and backup in flood
preparation. A pump does not cure poor grading or a continuing water
entry source.
If the unit does not start, short cycles, runs constantly, or the
discharge is frozen or blocked, call a qualified plumbing or
waterproofing contractor. Keep the test date and replacement history
handy. A leak sensor near the pit can add notice, though it does not
remove the need to test.
For local help, see the contractor
contacts on Helpful Resources. The Homeowner
Tools & Supplies guide covers sump and leak detection ideas;
choose equipment for your pit and power setup.